Need to run something down the mast? Hate trying to catch a line? Try this helpful hint from our dock neighbors (modified a bit by us):
Buy a thin line and cut it to exactly your mast length. Buy a cheap single speed bicycle chain. Connect the two.
Before you head up the mast to drop it down (WARNING: Going aloft is dangerous, and can result in death if not done correctly. If you have any concerns, talk to a professional. All information here is for informational purposes only, and is not an attempt by us to tell you how to proceed correctly, just which items we use for a job.):
1. Measure off the chain length on the OPPOSITE end of the line. (This way you have extra in your hand up top, yet know when it should hit the hole in the bottom.)
2. Put the cable, antenna and whatever else you need up with you in a bag. (We use the reusable grocery bags that ball up into themselves when not in use.)
3. Check the connection of your harness before hauling up. Hang off the deck a foot and make sure nothing gives. Use a safety line. And, be careful! Always work in at least pairs when aloft. (We like a climbing harness and self hauling pulley system.)
4. When aloft, drop the chain first down the mast to weight the line, and have your partner try to catch it through the hole in the bottom of the mast. (Easier said than done, and may take a few tries...but don't give up!)
5. Attach the cable that needs hauled down to the top of the line, and feed it down as your partner at the bottom pulls it out.
Enjoy!
(Oh, don't forget to climb back down.)
Tuesday, December 6, 2011
Saturday, December 3, 2011
Rivets, Divets and Bungs - 1.12.11
As you go through your cleaning routine, don't forget your upholstery. Your settee can grow things just like the couch in your house if you don't keep it clean (as can your mattresses and anything else). Get a small, portable carpet cleaner and use it on a regular basis, any time you spill something, and definitely if there is a smell. If the weather permits, throw the cushions topside to air out while they dry. (If it is cold, don't forget to leave some heat on inside with them or they may take so long to dry out you cause mold/mildew from the cleaning.)
We use the Bissell Little Green ProHeat every week where kids play/monthly everywhere else, but there are many options available. They also have hard surface cleaners...we're going to test one soon! (So, stay tuned after the new year...)
We use the Bissell Little Green ProHeat every week where kids play/monthly everywhere else, but there are many options available. They also have hard surface cleaners...we're going to test one soon! (So, stay tuned after the new year...)
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Rivets, Divets and Bungs - 29.11.11
Looking to re-do your bright work during the winter season? (i.e. varnish your wood) Make sure that you look at the varnish can closely. Good varnishes have different compositions for different temperature ranges. This ensures that you get a good flow when cold, and you don't have it so runny that drying takes forever if hot out. (Also remember that if you are working inside, you will probably have the heater on...)
We use and recommend Epiphanes, though there are other good ones out there. Our rule of thumb, if it works for you stick with it and tell your friends! :)
We use and recommend Epiphanes, though there are other good ones out there. Our rule of thumb, if it works for you stick with it and tell your friends! :)
Sunday, November 27, 2011
Weekend Checkup - The Head (or Marine Sanitation Device)
This weekend we take a look at our head / toilet / MSD / etc. With the exception of an occaisional odor, these pieces of equipment tend to work fairly well. When they do break, look out! You are usually in for something you would rather avoid.....and just go sailing. I will go over a couple of common issues with the marine head and ways to fix them or avoid them.
Issues are usually grouped into two categories: SMELLS and CLOGS
SMELLS: Even though the marine head's job is messy business all around, a properly installed / maintained system should not smell. Smells can originate from many sources, particularly in a saltwater system (newer freshwater systems alleviate some of this), and can be divided into either the salt water supply system or the discharge / head tank side.
Salt Water Supply Smells: When you are using salt water to flush your head you are drawing in a petri dish of living organisms which, if left in your system, die. I believe in most cases the (bad) smell associated with your head is this smell. One way to reduce the size of vegetation and organisms brought into the system is to install a strainer in the suction line (see your manufacturers recommendations for type/size). Without this strainer, organisms and plant matter can get stuck in the flushing holes along the rim of the bowl. As far as the smell from the bottom of the bowl - your best option is to pump the salt water out (dry setting) and then add some fresh water with bleach to remove the smell. For us liveaboards, this in not normally an issue if you are using your head regularly as the water remains fresh. For those that have to leave their boat, the head can provide a nice little welcome back smell if you keep the bowl full of salt water during your absence.
Discharge Side Smells: On the discharge side, not only do you have the salt water issue but you now have it combined with whatever bodily business you added to mix. This can sit in the lines in various places based on system design. The real issue with keeping the smell away on this side is maintaining an air tight / leak free system. A simple visual inspection can identify many of these - key areas to look at are hose connections and gaskets. Anywhere you see signs of leakage you are also identifying a likely contributor to the smell. These need to be fixed immediately - hopefully just a little tightening of a hose clamp followed by a proper cleaning of the area. If not, a hose replacement may be required. Another source of smell is permeation of the hose itself. Modern hoses provide a cure for this ( http://www.tridentmarine.com/stage/sanitation.htm). An easy way to determine if your hoses are permeated is to rub a rag or paper towel along the outside of the hose to see if it picks up the smell; if it does, you need to replace the hoses. Go for the good stuff here since you will hopefully only have to replace them once.
CLOGS: Two main culprits here. Either something was thrown in the toilet that should not have been, or scale and calcium built up in the discharge lines. Hopefully it is not the first because often these can require disassembly of the system to locate the blockage.
Foreign Object: If there is a foreign object, you can get creative to dislodge it (snake, water hose, plunger, etc.) or hope it breaks down over time. Many modern sanitation systems (Vacuflush, Electroscan, etc. ) may limit your options in order to protect the system.
Scale and Calcium Buildup: This can be a real problem with salt water systems, but you can avoid it with a little maintenance. Scale slowly constricts the diameter of your discharge line and can prevent correct flushing (hard to flush, bowl will not empty) and create clogs. If your system is new / clean, a regimen of flushing a pint of white vinegar through the lines once a month will prevent or slow most scale buildup. Move the vinegar through the system slowly: first let it sit in the bowl, then a pump or two to get it into the macerator / pump section, and then move it slowly through the discharge lines.
If you think you have heavy scale build up, the next option is Muriatic Acid (available at your local hardware store - Ace Hardware - Muriatic Acid ). Mix 10% with water and take proper safety precautions - linked item claims to be a "safer" version. This stuff is a miracle worker; it will eat through the calcium deposits like magic. Don't bother scrubbing the toilet, this stuff cleans it to a shining white. It does not hurt plastic or porcelain and only has minor affects on metal after prolonged exposure. The only problem is that it may work too good. In a highly scaled hose, dissolved calcium may get trapped and clog the line downstream. More acid will help to work it through. One good way to make sure you clean all of the discharge side is to close the discharge through hull and take out the vented portion of the vented loop ( Groco - Vented Loop) if you can. Clean the flapper and pour the Muriatic Acid down the discharge hose. If you had calcium deposits you will be amazed at the results.
Clean up with plenty of bleach and call it a day!
Don Casey talks on this subject as well: http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/04.htm
Hopefully this help you out - I just spent a weekend working this issue and, believe me, it was not pretty. But, I was really impressed by the Muriatic Acid (How had I not heard of this before?). So, give it a shot!
Thanks for stopping by!
Issues are usually grouped into two categories: SMELLS and CLOGS
SMELLS: Even though the marine head's job is messy business all around, a properly installed / maintained system should not smell. Smells can originate from many sources, particularly in a saltwater system (newer freshwater systems alleviate some of this), and can be divided into either the salt water supply system or the discharge / head tank side.
Salt Water Supply Smells: When you are using salt water to flush your head you are drawing in a petri dish of living organisms which, if left in your system, die. I believe in most cases the (bad) smell associated with your head is this smell. One way to reduce the size of vegetation and organisms brought into the system is to install a strainer in the suction line (see your manufacturers recommendations for type/size). Without this strainer, organisms and plant matter can get stuck in the flushing holes along the rim of the bowl. As far as the smell from the bottom of the bowl - your best option is to pump the salt water out (dry setting) and then add some fresh water with bleach to remove the smell. For us liveaboards, this in not normally an issue if you are using your head regularly as the water remains fresh. For those that have to leave their boat, the head can provide a nice little welcome back smell if you keep the bowl full of salt water during your absence.
Discharge Side Smells: On the discharge side, not only do you have the salt water issue but you now have it combined with whatever bodily business you added to mix. This can sit in the lines in various places based on system design. The real issue with keeping the smell away on this side is maintaining an air tight / leak free system. A simple visual inspection can identify many of these - key areas to look at are hose connections and gaskets. Anywhere you see signs of leakage you are also identifying a likely contributor to the smell. These need to be fixed immediately - hopefully just a little tightening of a hose clamp followed by a proper cleaning of the area. If not, a hose replacement may be required. Another source of smell is permeation of the hose itself. Modern hoses provide a cure for this ( http://www.tridentmarine.com/stage/sanitation.htm). An easy way to determine if your hoses are permeated is to rub a rag or paper towel along the outside of the hose to see if it picks up the smell; if it does, you need to replace the hoses. Go for the good stuff here since you will hopefully only have to replace them once.
CLOGS: Two main culprits here. Either something was thrown in the toilet that should not have been, or scale and calcium built up in the discharge lines. Hopefully it is not the first because often these can require disassembly of the system to locate the blockage.
Foreign Object: If there is a foreign object, you can get creative to dislodge it (snake, water hose, plunger, etc.) or hope it breaks down over time. Many modern sanitation systems (Vacuflush, Electroscan, etc. ) may limit your options in order to protect the system.
Scale and Calcium Buildup: This can be a real problem with salt water systems, but you can avoid it with a little maintenance. Scale slowly constricts the diameter of your discharge line and can prevent correct flushing (hard to flush, bowl will not empty) and create clogs. If your system is new / clean, a regimen of flushing a pint of white vinegar through the lines once a month will prevent or slow most scale buildup. Move the vinegar through the system slowly: first let it sit in the bowl, then a pump or two to get it into the macerator / pump section, and then move it slowly through the discharge lines.
If you think you have heavy scale build up, the next option is Muriatic Acid (available at your local hardware store - Ace Hardware - Muriatic Acid ). Mix 10% with water and take proper safety precautions - linked item claims to be a "safer" version. This stuff is a miracle worker; it will eat through the calcium deposits like magic. Don't bother scrubbing the toilet, this stuff cleans it to a shining white. It does not hurt plastic or porcelain and only has minor affects on metal after prolonged exposure. The only problem is that it may work too good. In a highly scaled hose, dissolved calcium may get trapped and clog the line downstream. More acid will help to work it through. One good way to make sure you clean all of the discharge side is to close the discharge through hull and take out the vented portion of the vented loop ( Groco - Vented Loop) if you can. Clean the flapper and pour the Muriatic Acid down the discharge hose. If you had calcium deposits you will be amazed at the results.
Clean up with plenty of bleach and call it a day!
Don Casey talks on this subject as well: http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/04.htm
Hopefully this help you out - I just spent a weekend working this issue and, believe me, it was not pretty. But, I was really impressed by the Muriatic Acid (How had I not heard of this before?). So, give it a shot!
Thanks for stopping by!
Wednesday, November 23, 2011
Rivets, Divets and Bungs - 22.11.11
Need a quick way to clean your head before guests arrive? Grab a pint of vinegar from your galley, let it sit until you see the shiny toilet, wipe away any remaining lines, and flush! (For a more thorough cleaning use muriatic acid...CAUTION: read all Warnings on the label as acids are corrosive and can harm you or even kill you if used improperly.)
Friday, November 11, 2011
Veteran's Day Sale and Blog Schedule
Alright, it has finally arrived! Our Veteran's Day sale is up and running...please email us (webmaster(at)springhaney.com) if you have any issues.
Our form mail (contact us page) should be working flawlessly. If you sent a request and haven't heard from us, try again. Or, you can call or email anytime!
And, finally, our updated blog schedule (NEW ITEMS!):
1. Rivets, Divets and Bungs - Tuesday and Thursday. Whatever random thoughts cross our mind about yachts, marine management, and life aboard.
2. Your Question - Wednesday (NEW!). Submit your question on our website or on Facebook for the experts to answer! If your question is used, you will receive a 5% off coupon for services! (Non-transferable, one-time use, void where prohibited, must meet minimum requirements.)
3. Weekend Checkup - Friday am through Monday am. We kept this one, as it seems to be a favorite. Which system is next? Find out tomorrow!
4.Testing and Reviews - Our yacht becomes a guinea pig. We test items, procedures and practices on our boat, and tell you about them here. Hopefully, you are saved some head- and heart-ache. :)
Make sure to subscribe if you haven't already to avoid missing anything.
Have a great week!
Our form mail (contact us page) should be working flawlessly. If you sent a request and haven't heard from us, try again. Or, you can call or email anytime!
And, finally, our updated blog schedule (NEW ITEMS!):
1. Rivets, Divets and Bungs - Tuesday and Thursday. Whatever random thoughts cross our mind about yachts, marine management, and life aboard.
2. Your Question - Wednesday (NEW!). Submit your question on our website or on Facebook for the experts to answer! If your question is used, you will receive a 5% off coupon for services! (Non-transferable, one-time use, void where prohibited, must meet minimum requirements.)
3. Weekend Checkup - Friday am through Monday am. We kept this one, as it seems to be a favorite. Which system is next? Find out tomorrow!
4.Testing and Reviews - Our yacht becomes a guinea pig. We test items, procedures and practices on our boat, and tell you about them here. Hopefully, you are saved some head- and heart-ache. :)
Make sure to subscribe if you haven't already to avoid missing anything.
Have a great week!
Thursday, September 15, 2011
Wacky Wednesday #5
I had heard great things about PoliGlow, and owned two full kits and the PoliOx bottle for a couple of years. When, I finally got around to testing it on our black-hulled boat, I learned a few lessons:
1. Use the PoliOx generously. If you cover an automobile polisher (~$20 at Walmart, Target, etc.) with the powder, clean a no greater than a five foot section of hull. I started with 15-20 feet...guess what? I had to go back again...and again...and, well, eventually I learned.
2. Rinse. If the hull does not look spotless, repeat step one. Keep doing this until the wet hull looks EXACTLY like you want. Otherwise, you will be re-doing it. Trust me on this one. There are still places I have to go back, remove the Glow, and re-Ox, not just re-Prep. Oh, and make sure you rinse all the way down to the water. It WILL eat paint. Don't say I didn't warn you, not to mention the bottle too in big letters. Luckily, I did read this so I managed to not remove any excess.
3. Once you have the entire hull on one side completed, notice I said one side, then you are ready for the PoliPrep. Do not try to do both sides at once, you will be repeating yourself later...
4. For the PoliPrep, I put on come coveralls and goggles and hung out on a kayak with the buffer again. Just make sure your power cord is fused and plugged into a GCA socket. Here is the fun part...while using the buffer with one hand, keep the cord out of the water and fend yourself off of the hull with the other. Yes, your arms get tired; your legs will too. Luckily, our waterline was about the kayak height, so I wasn't bumping the clean hull area. Again, five foot sections...notice a trend here? Guess where else it states this? Yep, the bottle.
5. This is where I screwed up, and now laugh at myself. I PoliOxed and PoliPreped the entire hull. Then went to Glow. Bad idea. Ox one side at a time, Prep the entire side, then go back and re-Prep the first 5' section. Once this dries (follow the time on the bottle), take out the sponge with the pad to Glow. Again, you will be repeating a lot more if you don't listen to this...It is amazing how much junk can build up on a clean hull in the time it takes you to work five feet of it.
6. For PoliGlow, use the big sponge...in your gloved hand. I could see maybe trying to use it on a stick if you are hauled out, but the evenness of pressure really requires a hand. Use the little piece of cloth to wipe any drips quickly. It is fairly useless for anything else. Five foot sections again...and overlap them. It didn't seem to make a difference in how far the overlap was. I did get better, cleaner coverage using the sponge vertically instead of horizontally. This took a little longer to dry, but was worth it.
7. Go do something else for ten minutes...or stare at polish drying.
8. Repeat the Glow coat on the same five feet.
9. Repeat steps 6-8 until you see the shine you want. It took me about 5-10 coats depending on the part of the hull. Ignore the coats amount on the bottle, use more (or fewer) until it looks like you want when it is dry. Granted, we had not had anyone successfully de-ox it in years...many many years.
10. Move over five feet. Repeat from step 5 for the next five feet.
While it takes a while, it is worth it. The good lesson learned? Nothing worth doing is easy. I put in days vice the hours I had hoped for, and still had touch-up work to do where I had rushed. However, on a hull that at least four "marine cleaners/handymen/guy on the docks" had tried to unsuccessfully clean/buff/polish, I can now see my reflection...in color...on a black hull. Oh, and remember, make sure that the varnishing you did that morning is dry before pulling out the automobile buffer...just saying...you never know...
1. Use the PoliOx generously. If you cover an automobile polisher (~$20 at Walmart, Target, etc.) with the powder, clean a no greater than a five foot section of hull. I started with 15-20 feet...guess what? I had to go back again...and again...and, well, eventually I learned.
2. Rinse. If the hull does not look spotless, repeat step one. Keep doing this until the wet hull looks EXACTLY like you want. Otherwise, you will be re-doing it. Trust me on this one. There are still places I have to go back, remove the Glow, and re-Ox, not just re-Prep. Oh, and make sure you rinse all the way down to the water. It WILL eat paint. Don't say I didn't warn you, not to mention the bottle too in big letters. Luckily, I did read this so I managed to not remove any excess.
3. Once you have the entire hull on one side completed, notice I said one side, then you are ready for the PoliPrep. Do not try to do both sides at once, you will be repeating yourself later...
4. For the PoliPrep, I put on come coveralls and goggles and hung out on a kayak with the buffer again. Just make sure your power cord is fused and plugged into a GCA socket. Here is the fun part...while using the buffer with one hand, keep the cord out of the water and fend yourself off of the hull with the other. Yes, your arms get tired; your legs will too. Luckily, our waterline was about the kayak height, so I wasn't bumping the clean hull area. Again, five foot sections...notice a trend here? Guess where else it states this? Yep, the bottle.
5. This is where I screwed up, and now laugh at myself. I PoliOxed and PoliPreped the entire hull. Then went to Glow. Bad idea. Ox one side at a time, Prep the entire side, then go back and re-Prep the first 5' section. Once this dries (follow the time on the bottle), take out the sponge with the pad to Glow. Again, you will be repeating a lot more if you don't listen to this...It is amazing how much junk can build up on a clean hull in the time it takes you to work five feet of it.
6. For PoliGlow, use the big sponge...in your gloved hand. I could see maybe trying to use it on a stick if you are hauled out, but the evenness of pressure really requires a hand. Use the little piece of cloth to wipe any drips quickly. It is fairly useless for anything else. Five foot sections again...and overlap them. It didn't seem to make a difference in how far the overlap was. I did get better, cleaner coverage using the sponge vertically instead of horizontally. This took a little longer to dry, but was worth it.
7. Go do something else for ten minutes...or stare at polish drying.
8. Repeat the Glow coat on the same five feet.
9. Repeat steps 6-8 until you see the shine you want. It took me about 5-10 coats depending on the part of the hull. Ignore the coats amount on the bottle, use more (or fewer) until it looks like you want when it is dry. Granted, we had not had anyone successfully de-ox it in years...many many years.
10. Move over five feet. Repeat from step 5 for the next five feet.
While it takes a while, it is worth it. The good lesson learned? Nothing worth doing is easy. I put in days vice the hours I had hoped for, and still had touch-up work to do where I had rushed. However, on a hull that at least four "marine cleaners/handymen/guy on the docks" had tried to unsuccessfully clean/buff/polish, I can now see my reflection...in color...on a black hull. Oh, and remember, make sure that the varnishing you did that morning is dry before pulling out the automobile buffer...just saying...you never know...
Thursday, September 8, 2011
Wacky Wednesday #4
Eight months pregnant, in the port lazarette, with the 9/16" wrench. Sometimes I feel like I am playing clue...what I looked like to others, well I probably don't want to know ;). Enjoy the mental humor this week. Oh, and if you must know, I was hard resetting the inverter/battery charger since it likes to have a mind of its own on occaision.
Thursday, August 18, 2011
Wacky Wednesday #3 ~ahem~ Thursday
Alright, so lots of new stuff in work for the website, so was distracted from writing this yesterday. You'll have to check back soon!
If you sail, I am sure you are familiar with the apprehension of pulling in somewhere unknown for the first time. Sure, you read the charts and have the GPS up and are standing by your radio. You're even following the directions given to you by the marina...in this case Hotel Corral in Ensenada.
Now, add on two-handing a 37' full-keel sailboat in the fog. In our defense, it was not foggy when we started pulling into Bahia Todos los Santos ("All Saints Bay"). But, by the time we were hitting the fog, it had wrapped around us to the point we were calling on all of the saints to keep us off the rocks. You see, there is this breakwater for Hotel Corral that the GPS wanted us to motor right through. Based on course and speed, we were very close, but didn't want to turn too early, or you miss the tiny entrance. Heading back out to sea to wait out the fog was not an option either due to the heavy shipping traffic moving in and out. We could hear their horns, and turning out would force us South right into their lanes.
What did we do? Well, while my better half manned the tiller, I went to the bow for a Titanic - King of the World moment. I could hear breakers. That was not good. However, I couldn't see anything and we knew we had shoreline to the left as well. I yelled back that I heard them from ahead, and we swapped positions to double-check. Water depth was still good. 5+ feet below the keel...but it would be all the way in we knew. Right after I took the helm, I saw rocks. Not little rocks either. mid-size boulders jutting up ready to eat us. I think that I was already turning, thank the gods for a tiller - will always believe it is a faster method of turning, by the time that I yelled out "Turning starboard, ROCKS!" I am sure it was loud enough to be heard, though it may have been a bit hysterical in tone. It wasn't until I was parallel to the breakwater and breathing again that we could see the rocks from the bow. And then, it was mainly looking down to make sure we weren't getting too close to any that were submerged.
With the initial shock over and the marina three-turn narrow channel up ahead, the fog was lingering. However, to our luck, the marina itself, as we have come to find out on follow up trips, seems to always be an oasis. You pass the entrance marker and the fog stops. Gladly, as I think my nerves were dead.
The lesson this week? Fog is fickle...while you think you should be able to see better from the bow, that is not always the case. Communication is key, and is the primary reason we made it safely. Never assume your bow lookout (or the helm in the other direction) can see anything you do. Yelling works on a 37' barely. I would recommend something else (walkie-talkie like) for bigger or even high winds in smaller boats. You never know what you are going to encounter on a gorgeous day. :)
If you sail, I am sure you are familiar with the apprehension of pulling in somewhere unknown for the first time. Sure, you read the charts and have the GPS up and are standing by your radio. You're even following the directions given to you by the marina...in this case Hotel Corral in Ensenada.
Now, add on two-handing a 37' full-keel sailboat in the fog. In our defense, it was not foggy when we started pulling into Bahia Todos los Santos ("All Saints Bay"). But, by the time we were hitting the fog, it had wrapped around us to the point we were calling on all of the saints to keep us off the rocks. You see, there is this breakwater for Hotel Corral that the GPS wanted us to motor right through. Based on course and speed, we were very close, but didn't want to turn too early, or you miss the tiny entrance. Heading back out to sea to wait out the fog was not an option either due to the heavy shipping traffic moving in and out. We could hear their horns, and turning out would force us South right into their lanes.
What did we do? Well, while my better half manned the tiller, I went to the bow for a Titanic - King of the World moment. I could hear breakers. That was not good. However, I couldn't see anything and we knew we had shoreline to the left as well. I yelled back that I heard them from ahead, and we swapped positions to double-check. Water depth was still good. 5+ feet below the keel...but it would be all the way in we knew. Right after I took the helm, I saw rocks. Not little rocks either. mid-size boulders jutting up ready to eat us. I think that I was already turning, thank the gods for a tiller - will always believe it is a faster method of turning, by the time that I yelled out "Turning starboard, ROCKS!" I am sure it was loud enough to be heard, though it may have been a bit hysterical in tone. It wasn't until I was parallel to the breakwater and breathing again that we could see the rocks from the bow. And then, it was mainly looking down to make sure we weren't getting too close to any that were submerged.
With the initial shock over and the marina three-turn narrow channel up ahead, the fog was lingering. However, to our luck, the marina itself, as we have come to find out on follow up trips, seems to always be an oasis. You pass the entrance marker and the fog stops. Gladly, as I think my nerves were dead.
The lesson this week? Fog is fickle...while you think you should be able to see better from the bow, that is not always the case. Communication is key, and is the primary reason we made it safely. Never assume your bow lookout (or the helm in the other direction) can see anything you do. Yelling works on a 37' barely. I would recommend something else (walkie-talkie like) for bigger or even high winds in smaller boats. You never know what you are going to encounter on a gorgeous day. :)
Saturday, August 13, 2011
Weekend Check Up - Batteries
The house batteries on a cruising sailboat are a big deal. They are what keep all of your essentials and gadgets running when you leave the pier. Now, if you own a small sail boat you might not have to worry about this too much, but more and more boats are carrying more and more amp hours. So, if you have (in semi-order of priority and extravagance) navigation lights, VHF, electronic navigation, auto-pilot, reefer (ice-box ~ahem~), instruments, lights, SSB, Sat Phone and an inverter for microwave, blender, TV/DVD, air conditioning, washer/dryer, etc., you might find it worthwhile to give your batteries a check up this weekend (if you have not looked at them in awhile).
1. First off, a visual inspection. Cleanliness is essential. Also, make sure there are no signs of bulging or leakage which could be indicative of a damaged cell. Make sure there is no dirt or water on the batteries and then look for corrosion at the connections or even acid. Any of these things can draw stray current from you batteries and drain them down over time. If you do notice any corrosion at the connections: disconnect the battery, clean the terminals and studs, then replace. A water and baking soda mix makes a good cleaning agent as it neutralizes any acid (make sure nothing gets into the battery itself if it has caps). When finished, a good idea is to cover these now freshly cleaned connections with some type of rust preventative (petroleum jelly, grease, Corrosion-X <-- love that stuff) to keep the connections clean. If you have a maintenance free battery (AGM, Gel Cell or the like) then you are pretty much done unless you are having issues and cleaning up the terminals did not correct it. If you have wet-cell batteries read on...
2. If you have wet-cell/flooded batteries, which are still the standard, quite common, economical and tough, you will also need to check the status of your electrolyte (recommended monthly or twice a month on new batteries until you know their needs). Open up the caps and verify the level of your electrolyte. Regardless of the batteries' charge condition the lead plates should never be visible. If your battery has been sitting on the charger all week the electrolyte will be close to its highest (because of a full charge) so if it is low you will need to add distilled water. Distilled water is recommended over tap as it is free of contaminants and minerals which can speed sulfation. The water should be close to the top of the fill tube but not touching in order to allow for expansion - see your battery's manufactures literature for exact recommended level. Trojan Batteries walks you through this process in detail here.
3. Also for wet-cell batteries, it is a good idea to regularly test the specific gravity of your electrolyte with a hydrometer (before you add any distilled water), as it can be a good indicator of potential issues. If you did not know, the electrolyte in the battery is sulfuric acid which is denser than water. As the battery discharges, the acid weakens and becomes less dense so measuring specific gravity can tell you the state of charge of you batteries. Again, Trojan Batteries spells out this testing process and provides you with a chart to compare your measurements against here. Trojan also discusses another test you can do, an open circuit voltage test. But, that starts to go past your simple weekend checkup and moves more into a maintenance day. Remember, if you have cells arranged in parallel or series the specific gravity of each should be measured and they should be close to one another. If they are not, it could indicate an issue with cell or perhaps a requirement for an equalization charge. Reconditioning batteries is a whole different discussion.
Take the time to look at your batteries this weekend if you have not seen them in awhile. Always make sure the electrolyte is topped off on wet-cell batteries. And, always keep the connections clean. Batteries will last a very long time if they are taken care of, and, given the cost of the latest set I just ordered, they are worth the effort.
Enjoy your boating this weekend and sail safe!
1. First off, a visual inspection. Cleanliness is essential. Also, make sure there are no signs of bulging or leakage which could be indicative of a damaged cell. Make sure there is no dirt or water on the batteries and then look for corrosion at the connections or even acid. Any of these things can draw stray current from you batteries and drain them down over time. If you do notice any corrosion at the connections: disconnect the battery, clean the terminals and studs, then replace. A water and baking soda mix makes a good cleaning agent as it neutralizes any acid (make sure nothing gets into the battery itself if it has caps). When finished, a good idea is to cover these now freshly cleaned connections with some type of rust preventative (petroleum jelly, grease, Corrosion-X <-- love that stuff) to keep the connections clean. If you have a maintenance free battery (AGM, Gel Cell or the like) then you are pretty much done unless you are having issues and cleaning up the terminals did not correct it. If you have wet-cell batteries read on...
2. If you have wet-cell/flooded batteries, which are still the standard, quite common, economical and tough, you will also need to check the status of your electrolyte (recommended monthly or twice a month on new batteries until you know their needs). Open up the caps and verify the level of your electrolyte. Regardless of the batteries' charge condition the lead plates should never be visible. If your battery has been sitting on the charger all week the electrolyte will be close to its highest (because of a full charge) so if it is low you will need to add distilled water. Distilled water is recommended over tap as it is free of contaminants and minerals which can speed sulfation. The water should be close to the top of the fill tube but not touching in order to allow for expansion - see your battery's manufactures literature for exact recommended level. Trojan Batteries walks you through this process in detail here.
3. Also for wet-cell batteries, it is a good idea to regularly test the specific gravity of your electrolyte with a hydrometer (before you add any distilled water), as it can be a good indicator of potential issues. If you did not know, the electrolyte in the battery is sulfuric acid which is denser than water. As the battery discharges, the acid weakens and becomes less dense so measuring specific gravity can tell you the state of charge of you batteries. Again, Trojan Batteries spells out this testing process and provides you with a chart to compare your measurements against here. Trojan also discusses another test you can do, an open circuit voltage test. But, that starts to go past your simple weekend checkup and moves more into a maintenance day. Remember, if you have cells arranged in parallel or series the specific gravity of each should be measured and they should be close to one another. If they are not, it could indicate an issue with cell or perhaps a requirement for an equalization charge. Reconditioning batteries is a whole different discussion.
Take the time to look at your batteries this weekend if you have not seen them in awhile. Always make sure the electrolyte is topped off on wet-cell batteries. And, always keep the connections clean. Batteries will last a very long time if they are taken care of, and, given the cost of the latest set I just ordered, they are worth the effort.
Enjoy your boating this weekend and sail safe!
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
Wacky Wednesday #2 - Reef Points Hold the Sail
Have you ever tried reefing a sail while pulling on the "reef points?" Though there are alway discrepancies based on who tells a story, the end result cannot be denied. With green crew three days out of port on a Trans-pac to Hawaii...you see where this is going already, don't you...the reef points were ~ahem~ either really old and decayed or pulled on too tightly. Most likely, it was somewhere in the middle ground. Unfortunately, a new main was not in the budget at the time, and turning back was not an option as we were on the clock. So, what do you do? What any Captain would; double reef the main. Oh, and get the wife to stitch in the reef points whilst sailing. Hey. It worked, and the main is still on that boat. Stories like that, we can never get rid of the thing now.
The lesson? Never leave home without sail tape, a sail needle, waxed thread and a wife!
The lesson? Never leave home without sail tape, a sail needle, waxed thread and a wife!
Saturday, August 6, 2011
Weekend Check Up - Shore Power
When was the last time you looked at your shore power connections? Now, when was the last time you did a thorough look at ALL the shore power connections? If it has been awhile, it is worth taking a few minutes to look at your entire AC set up from the dock connection to your boat's distribution panel. The below inspection procedure could save you from a catastrophic event on you boat. I happened to be installing a wind generator last weekend and got to see the inlet side of the shore power connection and immediately shifted projects. What I found was melted wire and charred connections at the inlet, and, upon further inspection, a slightly burnt hot (white) wire going into the distribution panel. No indications otherwise that there was anything wrong with the shore power system...
*Take the time this weekend and walk through your shore power and potentially save yourself a larger project down the road. Let us know what you find and have a great boating weekend!
MAKE SURE YOU TURN OFF AND DISCONNECT SHORE POWER BEFORE PROCEEDING.
*Remember, de-energize the system and disconnect at the shore connection first.
*When reconnecting, make sure the shore power is the last connection before re-energizing the system.
1. First inspect your shore power cord connections. They should be clean and not showing signs of overheating or burn marks. Burn marks are more likely to come from arcing across the contacts due to movement rather than drawing too many amps. Attaching a cord to boat on the water that moves to whim of water, wind and every other external force causes potential for loose connectors to arc. Make sure you secure your connections, especially the one to your boat, with something that prevents movement at the connection and still allows enough catenary in the cord to account for daily tides and wind shifts.
2. If you do find damaged connections you have a couple of options: If the damage is minor, just clean the connections (light sand paper, stainless steel brush etc), wipe the area clean, apply dielectric to the connections and reconnect. Make sure you address what was causing the movement or the problem will just reappear. If the damage is more severe (deep burns, melted connectors - usually on the hot white wire) you will need to make a repair. Do not fret about having to buy a whole new cord yet, they make replacement end pieces that are fairly simple to wire in and will save you a decent amount of cash with just a little work (30 Amp female example). When you cut the shore power cord make sure the wire itself is in good condition, you might have to cut back a little way to find good copper (clean, supple wire). Make sure you get the waterproof cover replacement as well if the connection is in an exposed area.
3. Now lets look at the boat side. Inspect the inlet, if the plug showed sign of arcing then the inlet will likely also show damage. Same as discussed above. If the damage is minor, clean, add some dielectric and secure. If the damage is more severe you will need to replace the inlet (luckily just the interior, not the whole inlet). If you replace the inlet you will also get a good look at the boat side connection wires, which is our next step.
4. Regardless of whether or not you see damage on the inlet, you need to take a look at the backside of the system. Check the wires that connect the inlet to your distribution panel for loose connections and signs of overheating. Overheating can look like darkened covers or actually melted covers. Also, stranded marine wire should be supple, stiff wire is also an indication of overheating. Overheating could be a result of the arcing found at the inlet (if you found some), undersized wire or too much amperage draw. First check the size and type of wire you have connecting the inlet to your distribution panel. For 30 Amps systems you are required to have at least 10 AWG wire running but the Marinco connectors allow up to an 8 AWG and I highly recommend going up a size if you can. For 50 Amp systems 6 AWG is the requirement. Ensure you have a quality tinned marine wire as well (Ancor, Pacer, etc) . If you have enough installed wire to spare, make new connections at a spot far enough away from the damaged section to find clean copper. If you cannot, I recommend replacing the entire section (from inlet to distro panel) rather than placing a butt connector and adding additional resistance to the system.
Marinco has a pretty good reference document that might be worth taking a look at.
A Boater's Guide to AC Electrical Systems
Also, Marinco is not the only option for shore power out there. They are the main supplier for West Marine and OEM for many boats and a quality product but you can find other (perhaps cheaper) options if you look online. Often, you get what you pay for but there are many reputable manufacturers that make great products that do not make it to the major chain stores. Bottom line: be a smart and informed buyer.
DISCLAIMER: All information is provided for informational purposes only. Use at your own risk. If you have any questions or doubts, please contact a certified technician. If you find any errors in our methodology, please let us know!
*Take the time this weekend and walk through your shore power and potentially save yourself a larger project down the road. Let us know what you find and have a great boating weekend!
MAKE SURE YOU TURN OFF AND DISCONNECT SHORE POWER BEFORE PROCEEDING.
*Remember, de-energize the system and disconnect at the shore connection first.
*When reconnecting, make sure the shore power is the last connection before re-energizing the system.
1. First inspect your shore power cord connections. They should be clean and not showing signs of overheating or burn marks. Burn marks are more likely to come from arcing across the contacts due to movement rather than drawing too many amps. Attaching a cord to boat on the water that moves to whim of water, wind and every other external force causes potential for loose connectors to arc. Make sure you secure your connections, especially the one to your boat, with something that prevents movement at the connection and still allows enough catenary in the cord to account for daily tides and wind shifts.
2. If you do find damaged connections you have a couple of options: If the damage is minor, just clean the connections (light sand paper, stainless steel brush etc), wipe the area clean, apply dielectric to the connections and reconnect. Make sure you address what was causing the movement or the problem will just reappear. If the damage is more severe (deep burns, melted connectors - usually on the hot white wire) you will need to make a repair. Do not fret about having to buy a whole new cord yet, they make replacement end pieces that are fairly simple to wire in and will save you a decent amount of cash with just a little work (30 Amp female example). When you cut the shore power cord make sure the wire itself is in good condition, you might have to cut back a little way to find good copper (clean, supple wire). Make sure you get the waterproof cover replacement as well if the connection is in an exposed area.
3. Now lets look at the boat side. Inspect the inlet, if the plug showed sign of arcing then the inlet will likely also show damage. Same as discussed above. If the damage is minor, clean, add some dielectric and secure. If the damage is more severe you will need to replace the inlet (luckily just the interior, not the whole inlet). If you replace the inlet you will also get a good look at the boat side connection wires, which is our next step.
4. Regardless of whether or not you see damage on the inlet, you need to take a look at the backside of the system. Check the wires that connect the inlet to your distribution panel for loose connections and signs of overheating. Overheating can look like darkened covers or actually melted covers. Also, stranded marine wire should be supple, stiff wire is also an indication of overheating. Overheating could be a result of the arcing found at the inlet (if you found some), undersized wire or too much amperage draw. First check the size and type of wire you have connecting the inlet to your distribution panel. For 30 Amps systems you are required to have at least 10 AWG wire running but the Marinco connectors allow up to an 8 AWG and I highly recommend going up a size if you can. For 50 Amp systems 6 AWG is the requirement. Ensure you have a quality tinned marine wire as well (Ancor, Pacer, etc) . If you have enough installed wire to spare, make new connections at a spot far enough away from the damaged section to find clean copper. If you cannot, I recommend replacing the entire section (from inlet to distro panel) rather than placing a butt connector and adding additional resistance to the system.
Marinco has a pretty good reference document that might be worth taking a look at.
A Boater's Guide to AC Electrical Systems
Also, Marinco is not the only option for shore power out there. They are the main supplier for West Marine and OEM for many boats and a quality product but you can find other (perhaps cheaper) options if you look online. Often, you get what you pay for but there are many reputable manufacturers that make great products that do not make it to the major chain stores. Bottom line: be a smart and informed buyer.
DISCLAIMER: All information is provided for informational purposes only. Use at your own risk. If you have any questions or doubts, please contact a certified technician. If you find any errors in our methodology, please let us know!
Wednesday, August 3, 2011
Wacky Wednesday #1 - Crystal's Epoxy Lessons Learned
Welcome to Wacky Wednesday posts, where we get to be creative and post a humors, yet true anecdote or story from our travails...enjoy! This week's comes from an email sent between owners a few years back following a head installation:
1. When you are mixing the epoxy, you are sure you don't have/haven't
made nearly enough and will invariably have to make a second batch. After
starting on the first hole, you realize you have enough to patch at
least two cannon ball holes at the waterline while sailing. Who knew?
2. Getting past mayonnaise is really, really difficult and annoying. Why
can't it be as easy as getting past ketchup? Once you get peanut butter,
though, all the pain was worth it. Well, maybe not bit you feel
accomplished at epoxy now and it sounded good. (Think I made it up? Read the instructions on how to mix West System epoxy here: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/fillers-and-additives)
3. The rag is a last minute addition as you are running/walking very
quickly so that your peanut butter doesn't harden before you use
it..."oh (bleep)" followed by grabbing whatever looks disposable between
where you mixed the stuff and the "project." At least the gloves were
donned prior to the mixing and a rag managed to find its way under the
rusty epoxy cans.
4. Is this the stuff they used to make the river of evil in Ghostbusters
2? Yes, I am sitting in the vicinity sniffing the fumes as I write. Seriously, it looks just like it.
5. The more artistic I try to become, the more of a mess I make and the
worse the outcome looks. On a good note you can just wipe up everything
on top with the little spreader stick, that got you into artistic
trouble in the first place, and start over. This requires the use of
much more epoxy, but still not enough to justify step one.
6. Anytime you try this with a cat around, it takes a forceful removing
of the cat at least three times before they decide that you are evil and
run off to find someone more pleasant to harass, I mean help.
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