Alright, so lots of new stuff in work for the website, so was distracted from writing this yesterday. You'll have to check back soon!
If you sail, I am sure you are familiar with the apprehension of pulling in somewhere unknown for the first time. Sure, you read the charts and have the GPS up and are standing by your radio. You're even following the directions given to you by the marina...in this case Hotel Corral in Ensenada.
Now, add on two-handing a 37' full-keel sailboat in the fog. In our defense, it was not foggy when we started pulling into Bahia Todos los Santos ("All Saints Bay"). But, by the time we were hitting the fog, it had wrapped around us to the point we were calling on all of the saints to keep us off the rocks. You see, there is this breakwater for Hotel Corral that the GPS wanted us to motor right through. Based on course and speed, we were very close, but didn't want to turn too early, or you miss the tiny entrance. Heading back out to sea to wait out the fog was not an option either due to the heavy shipping traffic moving in and out. We could hear their horns, and turning out would force us South right into their lanes.
What did we do? Well, while my better half manned the tiller, I went to the bow for a Titanic - King of the World moment. I could hear breakers. That was not good. However, I couldn't see anything and we knew we had shoreline to the left as well. I yelled back that I heard them from ahead, and we swapped positions to double-check. Water depth was still good. 5+ feet below the keel...but it would be all the way in we knew. Right after I took the helm, I saw rocks. Not little rocks either. mid-size boulders jutting up ready to eat us. I think that I was already turning, thank the gods for a tiller - will always believe it is a faster method of turning, by the time that I yelled out "Turning starboard, ROCKS!" I am sure it was loud enough to be heard, though it may have been a bit hysterical in tone. It wasn't until I was parallel to the breakwater and breathing again that we could see the rocks from the bow. And then, it was mainly looking down to make sure we weren't getting too close to any that were submerged.
With the initial shock over and the marina three-turn narrow channel up ahead, the fog was lingering. However, to our luck, the marina itself, as we have come to find out on follow up trips, seems to always be an oasis. You pass the entrance marker and the fog stops. Gladly, as I think my nerves were dead.
The lesson this week? Fog is fickle...while you think you should be able to see better from the bow, that is not always the case. Communication is key, and is the primary reason we made it safely. Never assume your bow lookout (or the helm in the other direction) can see anything you do. Yelling works on a 37' barely. I would recommend something else (walkie-talkie like) for bigger or even high winds in smaller boats. You never know what you are going to encounter on a gorgeous day. :)
Thursday, August 18, 2011
Saturday, August 13, 2011
Weekend Check Up - Batteries
The house batteries on a cruising sailboat are a big deal. They are what keep all of your essentials and gadgets running when you leave the pier. Now, if you own a small sail boat you might not have to worry about this too much, but more and more boats are carrying more and more amp hours. So, if you have (in semi-order of priority and extravagance) navigation lights, VHF, electronic navigation, auto-pilot, reefer (ice-box ~ahem~), instruments, lights, SSB, Sat Phone and an inverter for microwave, blender, TV/DVD, air conditioning, washer/dryer, etc., you might find it worthwhile to give your batteries a check up this weekend (if you have not looked at them in awhile).
1. First off, a visual inspection. Cleanliness is essential. Also, make sure there are no signs of bulging or leakage which could be indicative of a damaged cell. Make sure there is no dirt or water on the batteries and then look for corrosion at the connections or even acid. Any of these things can draw stray current from you batteries and drain them down over time. If you do notice any corrosion at the connections: disconnect the battery, clean the terminals and studs, then replace. A water and baking soda mix makes a good cleaning agent as it neutralizes any acid (make sure nothing gets into the battery itself if it has caps). When finished, a good idea is to cover these now freshly cleaned connections with some type of rust preventative (petroleum jelly, grease, Corrosion-X <-- love that stuff) to keep the connections clean. If you have a maintenance free battery (AGM, Gel Cell or the like) then you are pretty much done unless you are having issues and cleaning up the terminals did not correct it. If you have wet-cell batteries read on...
2. If you have wet-cell/flooded batteries, which are still the standard, quite common, economical and tough, you will also need to check the status of your electrolyte (recommended monthly or twice a month on new batteries until you know their needs). Open up the caps and verify the level of your electrolyte. Regardless of the batteries' charge condition the lead plates should never be visible. If your battery has been sitting on the charger all week the electrolyte will be close to its highest (because of a full charge) so if it is low you will need to add distilled water. Distilled water is recommended over tap as it is free of contaminants and minerals which can speed sulfation. The water should be close to the top of the fill tube but not touching in order to allow for expansion - see your battery's manufactures literature for exact recommended level. Trojan Batteries walks you through this process in detail here.
3. Also for wet-cell batteries, it is a good idea to regularly test the specific gravity of your electrolyte with a hydrometer (before you add any distilled water), as it can be a good indicator of potential issues. If you did not know, the electrolyte in the battery is sulfuric acid which is denser than water. As the battery discharges, the acid weakens and becomes less dense so measuring specific gravity can tell you the state of charge of you batteries. Again, Trojan Batteries spells out this testing process and provides you with a chart to compare your measurements against here. Trojan also discusses another test you can do, an open circuit voltage test. But, that starts to go past your simple weekend checkup and moves more into a maintenance day. Remember, if you have cells arranged in parallel or series the specific gravity of each should be measured and they should be close to one another. If they are not, it could indicate an issue with cell or perhaps a requirement for an equalization charge. Reconditioning batteries is a whole different discussion.
Take the time to look at your batteries this weekend if you have not seen them in awhile. Always make sure the electrolyte is topped off on wet-cell batteries. And, always keep the connections clean. Batteries will last a very long time if they are taken care of, and, given the cost of the latest set I just ordered, they are worth the effort.
Enjoy your boating this weekend and sail safe!
1. First off, a visual inspection. Cleanliness is essential. Also, make sure there are no signs of bulging or leakage which could be indicative of a damaged cell. Make sure there is no dirt or water on the batteries and then look for corrosion at the connections or even acid. Any of these things can draw stray current from you batteries and drain them down over time. If you do notice any corrosion at the connections: disconnect the battery, clean the terminals and studs, then replace. A water and baking soda mix makes a good cleaning agent as it neutralizes any acid (make sure nothing gets into the battery itself if it has caps). When finished, a good idea is to cover these now freshly cleaned connections with some type of rust preventative (petroleum jelly, grease, Corrosion-X <-- love that stuff) to keep the connections clean. If you have a maintenance free battery (AGM, Gel Cell or the like) then you are pretty much done unless you are having issues and cleaning up the terminals did not correct it. If you have wet-cell batteries read on...
2. If you have wet-cell/flooded batteries, which are still the standard, quite common, economical and tough, you will also need to check the status of your electrolyte (recommended monthly or twice a month on new batteries until you know their needs). Open up the caps and verify the level of your electrolyte. Regardless of the batteries' charge condition the lead plates should never be visible. If your battery has been sitting on the charger all week the electrolyte will be close to its highest (because of a full charge) so if it is low you will need to add distilled water. Distilled water is recommended over tap as it is free of contaminants and minerals which can speed sulfation. The water should be close to the top of the fill tube but not touching in order to allow for expansion - see your battery's manufactures literature for exact recommended level. Trojan Batteries walks you through this process in detail here.
3. Also for wet-cell batteries, it is a good idea to regularly test the specific gravity of your electrolyte with a hydrometer (before you add any distilled water), as it can be a good indicator of potential issues. If you did not know, the electrolyte in the battery is sulfuric acid which is denser than water. As the battery discharges, the acid weakens and becomes less dense so measuring specific gravity can tell you the state of charge of you batteries. Again, Trojan Batteries spells out this testing process and provides you with a chart to compare your measurements against here. Trojan also discusses another test you can do, an open circuit voltage test. But, that starts to go past your simple weekend checkup and moves more into a maintenance day. Remember, if you have cells arranged in parallel or series the specific gravity of each should be measured and they should be close to one another. If they are not, it could indicate an issue with cell or perhaps a requirement for an equalization charge. Reconditioning batteries is a whole different discussion.
Take the time to look at your batteries this weekend if you have not seen them in awhile. Always make sure the electrolyte is topped off on wet-cell batteries. And, always keep the connections clean. Batteries will last a very long time if they are taken care of, and, given the cost of the latest set I just ordered, they are worth the effort.
Enjoy your boating this weekend and sail safe!
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
Wacky Wednesday #2 - Reef Points Hold the Sail
Have you ever tried reefing a sail while pulling on the "reef points?" Though there are alway discrepancies based on who tells a story, the end result cannot be denied. With green crew three days out of port on a Trans-pac to Hawaii...you see where this is going already, don't you...the reef points were ~ahem~ either really old and decayed or pulled on too tightly. Most likely, it was somewhere in the middle ground. Unfortunately, a new main was not in the budget at the time, and turning back was not an option as we were on the clock. So, what do you do? What any Captain would; double reef the main. Oh, and get the wife to stitch in the reef points whilst sailing. Hey. It worked, and the main is still on that boat. Stories like that, we can never get rid of the thing now.
The lesson? Never leave home without sail tape, a sail needle, waxed thread and a wife!
The lesson? Never leave home without sail tape, a sail needle, waxed thread and a wife!
Saturday, August 6, 2011
Weekend Check Up - Shore Power
When was the last time you looked at your shore power connections? Now, when was the last time you did a thorough look at ALL the shore power connections? If it has been awhile, it is worth taking a few minutes to look at your entire AC set up from the dock connection to your boat's distribution panel. The below inspection procedure could save you from a catastrophic event on you boat. I happened to be installing a wind generator last weekend and got to see the inlet side of the shore power connection and immediately shifted projects. What I found was melted wire and charred connections at the inlet, and, upon further inspection, a slightly burnt hot (white) wire going into the distribution panel. No indications otherwise that there was anything wrong with the shore power system...
*Take the time this weekend and walk through your shore power and potentially save yourself a larger project down the road. Let us know what you find and have a great boating weekend!
MAKE SURE YOU TURN OFF AND DISCONNECT SHORE POWER BEFORE PROCEEDING.
*Remember, de-energize the system and disconnect at the shore connection first.
*When reconnecting, make sure the shore power is the last connection before re-energizing the system.
1. First inspect your shore power cord connections. They should be clean and not showing signs of overheating or burn marks. Burn marks are more likely to come from arcing across the contacts due to movement rather than drawing too many amps. Attaching a cord to boat on the water that moves to whim of water, wind and every other external force causes potential for loose connectors to arc. Make sure you secure your connections, especially the one to your boat, with something that prevents movement at the connection and still allows enough catenary in the cord to account for daily tides and wind shifts.
2. If you do find damaged connections you have a couple of options: If the damage is minor, just clean the connections (light sand paper, stainless steel brush etc), wipe the area clean, apply dielectric to the connections and reconnect. Make sure you address what was causing the movement or the problem will just reappear. If the damage is more severe (deep burns, melted connectors - usually on the hot white wire) you will need to make a repair. Do not fret about having to buy a whole new cord yet, they make replacement end pieces that are fairly simple to wire in and will save you a decent amount of cash with just a little work (30 Amp female example). When you cut the shore power cord make sure the wire itself is in good condition, you might have to cut back a little way to find good copper (clean, supple wire). Make sure you get the waterproof cover replacement as well if the connection is in an exposed area.
3. Now lets look at the boat side. Inspect the inlet, if the plug showed sign of arcing then the inlet will likely also show damage. Same as discussed above. If the damage is minor, clean, add some dielectric and secure. If the damage is more severe you will need to replace the inlet (luckily just the interior, not the whole inlet). If you replace the inlet you will also get a good look at the boat side connection wires, which is our next step.
4. Regardless of whether or not you see damage on the inlet, you need to take a look at the backside of the system. Check the wires that connect the inlet to your distribution panel for loose connections and signs of overheating. Overheating can look like darkened covers or actually melted covers. Also, stranded marine wire should be supple, stiff wire is also an indication of overheating. Overheating could be a result of the arcing found at the inlet (if you found some), undersized wire or too much amperage draw. First check the size and type of wire you have connecting the inlet to your distribution panel. For 30 Amps systems you are required to have at least 10 AWG wire running but the Marinco connectors allow up to an 8 AWG and I highly recommend going up a size if you can. For 50 Amp systems 6 AWG is the requirement. Ensure you have a quality tinned marine wire as well (Ancor, Pacer, etc) . If you have enough installed wire to spare, make new connections at a spot far enough away from the damaged section to find clean copper. If you cannot, I recommend replacing the entire section (from inlet to distro panel) rather than placing a butt connector and adding additional resistance to the system.
Marinco has a pretty good reference document that might be worth taking a look at.
A Boater's Guide to AC Electrical Systems
Also, Marinco is not the only option for shore power out there. They are the main supplier for West Marine and OEM for many boats and a quality product but you can find other (perhaps cheaper) options if you look online. Often, you get what you pay for but there are many reputable manufacturers that make great products that do not make it to the major chain stores. Bottom line: be a smart and informed buyer.
DISCLAIMER: All information is provided for informational purposes only. Use at your own risk. If you have any questions or doubts, please contact a certified technician. If you find any errors in our methodology, please let us know!
*Take the time this weekend and walk through your shore power and potentially save yourself a larger project down the road. Let us know what you find and have a great boating weekend!
MAKE SURE YOU TURN OFF AND DISCONNECT SHORE POWER BEFORE PROCEEDING.
*Remember, de-energize the system and disconnect at the shore connection first.
*When reconnecting, make sure the shore power is the last connection before re-energizing the system.
1. First inspect your shore power cord connections. They should be clean and not showing signs of overheating or burn marks. Burn marks are more likely to come from arcing across the contacts due to movement rather than drawing too many amps. Attaching a cord to boat on the water that moves to whim of water, wind and every other external force causes potential for loose connectors to arc. Make sure you secure your connections, especially the one to your boat, with something that prevents movement at the connection and still allows enough catenary in the cord to account for daily tides and wind shifts.
2. If you do find damaged connections you have a couple of options: If the damage is minor, just clean the connections (light sand paper, stainless steel brush etc), wipe the area clean, apply dielectric to the connections and reconnect. Make sure you address what was causing the movement or the problem will just reappear. If the damage is more severe (deep burns, melted connectors - usually on the hot white wire) you will need to make a repair. Do not fret about having to buy a whole new cord yet, they make replacement end pieces that are fairly simple to wire in and will save you a decent amount of cash with just a little work (30 Amp female example). When you cut the shore power cord make sure the wire itself is in good condition, you might have to cut back a little way to find good copper (clean, supple wire). Make sure you get the waterproof cover replacement as well if the connection is in an exposed area.
3. Now lets look at the boat side. Inspect the inlet, if the plug showed sign of arcing then the inlet will likely also show damage. Same as discussed above. If the damage is minor, clean, add some dielectric and secure. If the damage is more severe you will need to replace the inlet (luckily just the interior, not the whole inlet). If you replace the inlet you will also get a good look at the boat side connection wires, which is our next step.
4. Regardless of whether or not you see damage on the inlet, you need to take a look at the backside of the system. Check the wires that connect the inlet to your distribution panel for loose connections and signs of overheating. Overheating can look like darkened covers or actually melted covers. Also, stranded marine wire should be supple, stiff wire is also an indication of overheating. Overheating could be a result of the arcing found at the inlet (if you found some), undersized wire or too much amperage draw. First check the size and type of wire you have connecting the inlet to your distribution panel. For 30 Amps systems you are required to have at least 10 AWG wire running but the Marinco connectors allow up to an 8 AWG and I highly recommend going up a size if you can. For 50 Amp systems 6 AWG is the requirement. Ensure you have a quality tinned marine wire as well (Ancor, Pacer, etc) . If you have enough installed wire to spare, make new connections at a spot far enough away from the damaged section to find clean copper. If you cannot, I recommend replacing the entire section (from inlet to distro panel) rather than placing a butt connector and adding additional resistance to the system.
Marinco has a pretty good reference document that might be worth taking a look at.
A Boater's Guide to AC Electrical Systems
Also, Marinco is not the only option for shore power out there. They are the main supplier for West Marine and OEM for many boats and a quality product but you can find other (perhaps cheaper) options if you look online. Often, you get what you pay for but there are many reputable manufacturers that make great products that do not make it to the major chain stores. Bottom line: be a smart and informed buyer.
DISCLAIMER: All information is provided for informational purposes only. Use at your own risk. If you have any questions or doubts, please contact a certified technician. If you find any errors in our methodology, please let us know!
Wednesday, August 3, 2011
Wacky Wednesday #1 - Crystal's Epoxy Lessons Learned
Welcome to Wacky Wednesday posts, where we get to be creative and post a humors, yet true anecdote or story from our travails...enjoy! This week's comes from an email sent between owners a few years back following a head installation:
1. When you are mixing the epoxy, you are sure you don't have/haven't
made nearly enough and will invariably have to make a second batch. After
starting on the first hole, you realize you have enough to patch at
least two cannon ball holes at the waterline while sailing. Who knew?
2. Getting past mayonnaise is really, really difficult and annoying. Why
can't it be as easy as getting past ketchup? Once you get peanut butter,
though, all the pain was worth it. Well, maybe not bit you feel
accomplished at epoxy now and it sounded good. (Think I made it up? Read the instructions on how to mix West System epoxy here: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/fillers-and-additives)
3. The rag is a last minute addition as you are running/walking very
quickly so that your peanut butter doesn't harden before you use
it..."oh (bleep)" followed by grabbing whatever looks disposable between
where you mixed the stuff and the "project." At least the gloves were
donned prior to the mixing and a rag managed to find its way under the
rusty epoxy cans.
4. Is this the stuff they used to make the river of evil in Ghostbusters
2? Yes, I am sitting in the vicinity sniffing the fumes as I write. Seriously, it looks just like it.
5. The more artistic I try to become, the more of a mess I make and the
worse the outcome looks. On a good note you can just wipe up everything
on top with the little spreader stick, that got you into artistic
trouble in the first place, and start over. This requires the use of
much more epoxy, but still not enough to justify step one.
6. Anytime you try this with a cat around, it takes a forceful removing
of the cat at least three times before they decide that you are evil and
run off to find someone more pleasant to harass, I mean help.
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